Monday, August 23, 2010

Let's get physical...


as Olivia Newton-John once said, or try to if you live in Delhi and are training for a half marathon...

For those who know me, don’t laugh and yes it is true, I am indeed training for a half marathon. The Delhi Half Marathon is a big fixture in our fundraising calendar so on 21st November I will be (attempting to) run 21km to help raise funds for my NGO, Score Foundation.

Firstly, I wish I ‘glowed’ as elegantly as Olivia, the problem with running in India and the fact it’s 36°c by 7am, is that you end up looking like you’ve had a beetroot facial whilst being wrapped in clingfilm in a sauna. It’s not helped by the fact you need to still be covered up whilst you are exercising here. Tracky bums and a baggy t-shirt are fine, but shorts and a vest top are a no, unless you are male. I’m very jealous of a Sikh gentleman who power walks around my local park in (slightly too tight) shorts and I enviable stare at his bare legs. But I should not complain at least I can go jogging outside, many female volunteers in more rural areas have no options for exercising al fresco. The local gyms are male only so you can only exercise at home, so one resourceful friend has created her own workout regime A-Team style with bricks and plastic bags.

Running on the road is a complete no unless you are on a death wish, or are doing a Krypton Factor style regime that involves hurdling cows and dodging street dogs so you need to find a local park. Delhi is actually a lot greener than you would think so there are quite a few options near us. Our local park (a rectangle of grass in a residential area) has a good ‘track’ (a concrete path about 3ft wide) around; some grass where cricket is always played, a concrete badminton court, a playground which seems to be a crèche for local street children and construction workers , random malnourished topiary statutes of elephants and Lord Ganesh.

Without generalising too much, on average Indian’s don’t exercise that much. You very rarely see people jogging but power walking is a big thing. Power walkers tend to be middle aged, gather in gangs and combine walking and chatting together. It’s more of an exertive stroll and they tend to walk in threes which makes it particularly hard to overtake when you are trying to embrace your inner Paula Radcliffe.

A nation of non exercise lovers is not particularly helpful when you are trying to raise money for a marathon, particularly when it comes to recruiting people to run for us. We had a group of management consultants in the office the other day for a CSR ‘make a difference day’, I thought this was going to be rich pickings and I would easily sign a few runners up. As I stood up to pitch I looked around the room and noticed most of the men (young and old) were sporting rather rotund ‘ghee guts’. So my request of “who loves running?” and “who loves going to the gym?” was warmly greeted with silence. I think I’m going to have to rethink my strategy to get anyone to sign up and Just Do It...

Highlights: rain, rain, rain – you have to love the monsoon when you are cosy at home, munching on peanut butter toast and another storm rolls in but having now been caught in a full deluge trying to cross a knee length brown river (the road) to get to work the novelty is wearing off – gone are the days where your washing dried in an hour and the emo goth panda eye look is really not my style, new friends and Sunday brunches – smoked salmon, white wine spritzers and great conversation the perfect way to end the weekend, having time to read – due to my marathon regime I’m getting up earlier and have quality book time over a cup of tea before I go to work, work food approval – so finally I decided to make my own Indian food and bought some homemade aloo gobi into work for all to share, many said no to trying some as allegedly my vegetables were ‘too crunchy’ but I got the seal of approval from one of my colleagues whose delicious South Indian food I always get to eat so that’s good enough for me.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Boys, boys, boys...


...as Sabrina once sang, she was looking for a good time but in India they are just looking and everywhere it seems.

So I might sound a little paranoid but being stared at and being surrounded by men has become an everyday part of living in India. Let’s start with the facts, it’s been estimated (well Wikipedia reckons) that at birth there are 1.21 boys for every girl so the statistics back me up.

My commute to work is the start of my daily stare off. I firstly go past a gang of mobile ice cream vendors. Their wheelie kiosks are being filled by the time I pass and many are chopping up large blocks of ice or having a wash in their y-fronts or lungis. It probably doesn’t help that most of my route to work follows a construction site for the new Metro and the Commonwealth Games. I firstly reach Construction Corner where there’s a regular posse of workmen having a good look and hanging around looking like they are auditioning for a Village People video. I then go down Grease Alley which is a strip of mechanics, so ignoring the stares I pretend I’m Sandy from Grease and they’re the T-Birds about to burst into song (but sadly I’m yet to hear a ‘wallah, wallah-uh’). Some women do stare, but it’s easy to ‘charm and disarm’ with a smile. The cycle rickshaw wallahs can take staring to a whole new level which involves driving up to within 5mm of you and shouting ‘Rickshaw madam’ whilst delightfully blocking your path and causing me to give a death stare back.

So why the staring? Am I provocatively dressed or just the hottest thing in town? Hot, yes , but in a slightly sweaty betty sense from the monsoon humidity. I dress in salwaar kameez, hide behind my shades but guess it may just be my pale skin and the fact a blondie is walking rather than being driven around in an air conditioned pod. Some days I’m fine with it. I like to think I’m Claudia Schiffer and I must be having a good hair day despite the 90% humidity. Other days, it can make you go into meltdown. Being stuck in traffic causes the maximum staring as trying to hide out in the back of rickshaw from prying eyes in the terrible traffic and endless jams is pretty hard. I did have a Travis Bickle, Taxi Driver, moment the other day. I was most proud when I translated ‘you starin’ at me’ by lamely shouting out ‘Kya?’ (“what” in Hindi) which caused much merriment to the five businessman crammed into the back of a Tata Nano.

It’s best not to get stressed about it. So a few weeks I decided to retreat from the streets and treat myself to a pedicure. The beauty parlour, the perfect sanctuary for females where boys are firmly banished and a girl can just relax. Well not in India it seems. The pedicure team were all male and for Rs200 a girl can’t really complain. I tried to enjoy the calf massage but it seemed to be wrong that so many men were applying lotions and potions and pampering away. It’s particularly wrong when you see women doing heavy construction work on the side of the road daily. But India never makes sense, with such a large amount of human capital there’s always jobs for the boys...

Highlights: good food + great company – having returned from my travels and got to taste exotic delicacies (e.g. not eat curry everyday) my palette is having to adapt back to the spicy side of life so it was a real treat to go on a gastro tour of Delhi last week when some other volunteers came to town, pizza, sushi, real coffee, fish and chips- just heaven, when it rains it pours – being woken up by a clap of thunder and full monsoon storm last weekend, grey moody skies and water up to your knees on the streets it was cold enough to even have a hot shower, getting my ‘road legs’ back – I’ve had to retrain myself in the art of crossing road e.g. causing traffic to stop to have a chance of getting anywhere, so I was particularly pleased when I had my very own Moses/parting of the Red Sea moment and got 4 lanes of traffic to stop due to the power of sticking out my left arm and defiantly marching across the road - you have to love a bit of pedestrian power, free drinks + great company – it doesn’t take much to please a volunteer but getting a golden ticket to a book launch at the five star Taj Mahal hotel on Friday night made my week, great wine (chilled Pinot Grigio) and even greater company, the perfect way to start the weekend...