Wednesday, March 24, 2010

On the road with George...


Six months ago if you had mentioned the words, “work trip”, I would have rolled my eyes, sighed and strapped myself in for endless nights of PowerPoint slide creation, early starts and late arrivals on the Eurostar and a world of pain. How life changes...

I’ve just spent the last 5 days with my boss, George, on a work trip like no other. I’ve been lucky enough to visit one of the most beautiful and remotest parts of India and learn more about disability, the rural situation and insurgency which is a part of everyday life for many who live in the North East of India.

Firstly let me explain why we were headed off to Assam and Meghalaya, which is nestled between Bangladesh, Bhutan, China and Myanmar. I am volunteering for an organisation that is a knowledge resource for people with visual impairment. We fulfil a roll that in the developed world most governments and health authorities would do. We empower, inform and inspire the blind and visually impaired through various channels of our Project Eyeway www.eyeway.org which include a radio programme, website, helpdesk, SMS service, talking books library, workshops and cricket camps.

Until you live in India you can’t really understand the frustrating lack of information that is available to do the most basic of things. I myself have experienced it trying to even register as a foreigner. So you can imagine what it must be like if you are, or become blind in a society where blindness can be through malnutrition, is seen as punishment from the gods therefore a sin on your behalf, you are considered worthless and are stuck at home with little or no opportunity for independence. This situation is even worse in rural areas and in the North East. It is a particularly deprived area, with poor infrastructure, home to over 200 tribes, many dialects and infrequent insurgencies. So we were off to complete a research project to find out what life with blindness is like there, find organisations we could partner with to provide a bespoke Eyeway programme.

We started off in Assam. We spent two days in Guwahati the capital. We touched down at the airport, skimming past a group of boys playing cricket near the runway and it seemed as if we had landed in the Caribbean. Lush jungle hills, palm trees and the huge Brahmaputra River dotted with islands which could have been the sea. The place was so relaxed, people were even wearing shorts, including the girls – I’ve never seen so much leg on display in India. There we met our contact who we nicknamed ‘The Don of Disability’. Having managed the research project, he has more connections than a telephone exchange, which was reinforced by the fact we rode around in his pimped up white jeep the whole time.

We had a successful partner meeting and then moved onto Shillong in Meghalya. The 3 hour drive involves winding up a very narrow jungle pass, which is a truckers bypass and based on our taxi drivers skills, also a local Formula 1 track. It was amazing how quickly the landscaped changed. Palm trees were replaced with bamboo, the air became cooler, and we passed a Mediterranean like lake and arrived to Shillong’s colonial charm. It felt like being in South America, with timber clad chalet like buildings with tin roofs, wide open streets with pavements (believe me a serious luxury in India) and amazingly no rubbish. Sleeping without a fan at night was a novelty, it was so ‘cold’ compared to Delhi, George and I went shawl shopping . At this partner meeting we found out more about the rural situation, listening to blind students who had grown up in the Khasi tribe. One girl explained how as there was no information on blindness, her mother did not know what to do and treated her with traditional medicine of an alcohol, black pepper and spice mix. Luckily she had access to information about a blind school through a visitor to her village, she attended and is now working for a local NGO.

After an 11 hour journey we returned to Delhi last night to be greeted by 36° heat and I think it was the first time I had ever returned from a work trip invigorated and looking forward to writing up the meeting notes.

Highlights: it’s still only spring but it’s got up to 38° in the last few days – it’s hard work sleeping but your washing dries in seconds, enjoying a cold beer from the fridge – when you are constantly drinking water it’s so good after a day at the office and a dusty walk home, a package arriving from another wonderful friend full of chocolate and a copy of Grazia – a girl needs her fashion and WAGs gossip to keep in touch with life at home, work – by seeing another part of India, spending time with my boss and meeting so many interesting people I really feel like I’m understanding the world of NGOs, disability and India so much more - VSO really is a privilege.

3 comments:

  1. Sitting half way across the globe, I feel jealous of all you guys. You seem to have seen more of India than I have in my time there!

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  2. I am from Assam and great to hear that you enjoyed visiting this lovely place. India is a great and diverse country and a lovely place to live or visit. I also stay a lot of my time in Delhi and hope you enjoy your time in this great land.

    Nice blog anyways. Get a proper domain to make it look more professional. Honkifyoulikecurry.com is also available. Get it from Godaddy.com or name.com and make the blog look more professional IMO.

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  3. One more thing. Assam is nearly as diverse as India. I loled at your comment that you have never seen as much leg show in India especially of girls as in Assam. Frankly speaking Assam is a more conservative culture than India and I even remember that even a Vengaboys concert concert was not allowed in Assam a decade ago due to protest by women's groups saying it is against Assamese culture. But now the culture is also opening up with the rest of India. Then again I doubt if the girls in shorts were actually from Assam but I am quite sure are immigrants from neighboring states like Manipur, Mizoram, Nagaland etc. which are states with more sexual openness. I personally consider myself both Assamese/Guwahatian as well as a Delhite as I have resided for long periods of time in both places. In Delhi, you will find people from all over India as well as some from abroad whereas in Guwahati you will find people all over NorthEast as well as some from other Indian states. If India is a land of huge diversity then Assam is also very diverse. You will find nearly all religions, atheists, tribals with their own sub-cultures and to sum it up Assam is like a mini-India with all diversities. But you are right in the fact that Assam is full of greenery. I can hardly see any house without trees and plants including my house. Even govt. rules are strict here and houses are not allowed to be built side by side here. On the other hand, in Delhi you wont find a single feet of land wasted and thereby no vegetation. If you come to Assam next time, I would advise you to visit Kaziranga wildlife sanctuary which is the only place in the world where you can find one-horned rhinoceros in the wild. One more place I would advise is Majuli island which is the largest river island in the world situated in river Brahmaputra. Assam has a calm and serene environment though hustle and bustle is increasing day by day especially in Guwahati which is developing at a very fast pace. One more difference of Assam and Guwahati is that the climate is temperate nearly all the year round compared to Delhi. Delhi touches near 50 degrees in summer and near 2-3 degrees in winter. But in Guwahati, it is about 15-30 degrees for the whole year though the monsoon season is a whole lot longer.

    Hope you did not mind the ramblings :P

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